2nd Lesson: Tailoring and Fabrics

Hopefully you had a nice weekend. 🙂 I went to a haneri (半襟) course this weekend and was taught how to sew it properly by a professional kimono tailor. Was real fun, but let’s talk more about haneri (decorative collar) after we finished the kimono basics. 😉

There are a lot of kimono types differing in tailoring and cloth and another type differing in rank depending on their pattern. Today we will start with the types depending on tailoring and fabrics.

① There are kimono for autumn and winter, you can wear from October until April (or middle of May). They are called awase (袷). You can distinguish them very easily, because they are lined. The lining is mostly white silk.

awase aussen awase innen

② The kimono you wear in June and September are called hitoe  (単衣). They are “single-clothed” which means that they’re simply not lined.

hitoe aussen hitoe

③ In summer there are two types of kimono. The first one is called natsumono (夏物) or usumono (薄物). They are made of a thin silk gauze or hemp cloth, which is nearly transparent. They are worn in July and August. If you see a kimono which is transparent, it is definitely natsumono. The nagajuban you wear under them are made of the same fabric.

natsumononatsumono innen

The different types of silk gauze are very interesting. Read more about summer kimono in lesson 14.

④ The second type of summer kimono is the well-known yukata (浴衣). Yukata is the only kimono which differs in tailoring and fabric as well as rank. For wearing them, you don’t need an undergarment and you tie a hanhaba obi (read more about obi in lessons 4 and 11). Because you don’t wear an undergarment, the cloth is thicker than natsumono.

yukata aussen yukata innen

Yukata is most casual kimono. If you want to express it with western clothes, you would say that a yukata is the jeans among kimono.

Next time we will have a look at the different kimono types and ranks. That will become a bit hard, but please stay with me!

P.S.: If you liked the kimono examples, you should take a look here Shinei!! 😉


 

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