2nd Lesson: Tailoring and Cloths

Hopefully you had a nice weekend. 🙂 I went to a haneri (半襟) course this weekend and was taught how to sew it properly by a professional kimono tailor. Was real fun, but let’s talk more about haneri (decorative collar) after we finished the Kimono basics. 😉

There are a lot of kimono types differing in tailoring and cloth and another type differing in rank depending on their pattern. Today we will start with the types depending on tailoring and cloth.

① There are kimono for autumn and winter, you can wear from October until April (or middle of May). They are called awase (袷). You can distinguish them very easily, because they are made of two cloths. The inner one is used to be white.

awase aussen awase innen

You wear a nagajuban (長襦袢) under it, which is a full-length undergarment. It is made of two cloths, too.

② The kimono you wear in June and September are called hitoe  (単衣). They are “single-clothed” which means that there isn’t an inner cloth. The undergarment is called hitoe nagajuban (単衣長襦袢) and it is single-clothed, too.

hitoe aussen hitoe

③ In summer there are two types of kimono you may wear. The first one is called natsumono (夏物) or usumono (薄物). They are made of a thin silk gauze or hemp cloth, which is nearly transparent. They are worn in July and August. If you see a kimono which is transparent, it is definitely natsumono. The nagajuban you wear under them are made of the same cloth.

natsumononatsumono innen

The different types of silk gauze are very interesting, so I will write about them later in detail.

④ The second type of summer kimono is the well-known yukata (浴衣). Yukata is the only kimono which differs in tailoring and cloth as well as rank. For wearing them, you don’t need an undergarment and you tie a hanhaba obi (read more about obi in 4th and 11th lesson). Because you don’t wear an undergarment, the cloth is thicker than natsumono.

yukata aussen yukata innen

As I said above, yukata is also a kimono rank, which is the most casual. If you want to express it with western clothes, you would say that a yukata is the jeans among kimono.

One thing you should also know: most nagajuban are hitoe nagajuban, because no one knows, what you are wearing under your kimono. With wearing hitoe nagajuban you can extend the nagajuban’s usage for two months, which makes it even more convenient than an awase nagajuban.

Next time we will have a look at the different kimono types and ranks. That will become a bit hard, but please stay with me!

P.S.: If you liked the kimono examples, you should take a look here Shinei!! 😉

 

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