12th Lesson: Haneri

Haneri (半襟, “half collar”) is a decorative collar sewed on the nagajuban, that you can put the erishin inside it, before wearing kimono. Erishin is a long, plastic strip which hardens the eri and helps you to show your neck prettily.

If you are going to wear reisō, it is recommended to have a white haneri. But there are also a lot of other colors.

  You can also make haneri of old cloth, scarfs, etc. Just cut it to 112cm x 16cm. 100cm length is fine, too. When you cut the cloth, piking shears are recommended, because you won’t have to hem it.

 Haneri are the icing of the cake and perfect your outfit. However, it takes time to change them, thus it easier to keep it white, which is basic. Sometimes I’m motivated enough to have another color, but I always regret changing it, because I have to take it off again.

 How to put a haneri on a nagajuban:

① After taking the old haneri off, start with ironing the eri of the nagajuban.

② Pinning the haneri on the front. Starting in the middle, which you can find easily thanks to the senui (背縫い).

③ Sewing with the following stitches (length: 2cm front, 2cm back). Don’t forget to change the length of the stitches showing up on the front from katayama to katayama (length: 1-2mm front, 2cm back).

stitches haneri front

④ Iron the side you have just finished. Then fold the other half to the back, pin and sew it in the same way as above.

stitches haneri

⑤ Don’t forget to iron it one last time.


 

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